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 5/12/2009 12:54 PM
 

I've been climbing a few years and remember when sport climbing came to the US.  The kick for sport climbing was you could push yourself and try falling and for the most part be safe.  So issues of pilot error or belayer error were the variables to watch out for to ensure a safe and grade pushing experience.  The goal then was to place good bolts on clean rock without too much worry of harming yourself or your belayer.  Sure accidents happen with sport climbing just like all types of climbing but the route itself should not be the leading cause of any accident if the route has been cleaned of loose flakes, blocks, chunks, etc and the TR anchors are placed well not on mostly detached blocks where good rock is close by. 

So,.. time for my opinion.   The route "Depends"  is in great need of cleaning and anchor placement in a bad way.

After climbing the route 2 times with numerous flakes, chunks and such attacking my belayer we need to get together as a climbing community to make sure new routes going up are good, safe and fun. 

Remember. climbers take the path of least resistance when climbing.  Sure a route is meant to go a certain way but when there are big holds to grab the climber will tend that way.  Even if those big holds are junk. 

I am a true lover of scetchy dangerous routes, whether Sedona, AZ or Alaska, but when sport climbing,...knocking blocks on my belayer is just F...ing stupid route choice and placement. 

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 6/14/2009 11:46 PM
 

Sorry Jon, but this website sucks!  If you had seen  http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/buena_vista/bobs_rock/106407011?highlightphrase=depends&

 

You would have been warned. 

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