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 5/26/2008 4:14 PM
 

Does anyone know of the climbs here?

I have done a couple of them but I am rather confused on what they are and the rules enforced here.

For example, we started up a nice face filled with golf balls, no nearby cracks, and bolting on lead. We ran into several chopped bolt holes. The climb was fantastic, but rather disappointing to see all the holes. I can't find any info on the crags anywhere (like the Trailhead for instance). If anyone knows anything about this area please contact me. There are several routes in the area that are pretty fun, and the place has a lot of potential.

Casey

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 5/26/2008 4:18 PM
 

I have been climbing up there since 1987. The castle rock area has had limited and contentious attention in the past 20+ years. Most of the climbs on the South tower above the county road, were put up in the mid 80's, during the Matt Beckelhymer/Jim Page era of 1/4 inch bolts and cold shuts. The others are probably Andy Brown projects from that same time. Many of these disappeared after they loosened or just got too old to trust. In recent years, the RMOC and several front range groups have been using the top rope anchors there, as well as some of the rocks and towers further north on the ridge for their commercial trips. This area, known as the "Wild Granites" used to have a page in the Trailhead guidebook, but it was taken out or lost in the late 80's. As I remember it, the page described several trad climbs and contained a plea for no bolting in the area. For years, this was honored and it became a nice quiet place to go and get away from the crowds until the late 90's. At that time, several commercial ventures began using the area and developed several slabs with routes, anchors, and a guidebook that was kept to their company's stash. Over the next several years, bolts were put in and often chopped just as quickly, while traffic increased. Conflicts of interest between large groups and nesting raptors (notably falcons across the ravine from one of the slabs) continued, until 2004, when I went in with Alan Robinson of Friends of 4 Mile and Mike Sugaski from the Forest Service. It was determined at that time that the birds deserved a break (ala Boulder's Flatirons & Eldo)and the commercial venue that had been developed in the riparian area was questionable, but would be allowed to remain. With a few exceptions, the bolting halted in the nesting area and the climbers have stayed on the Southern and Western areas during nesting season (May-late July). While little has been done to firm up a policy so far, the commercial use continues in some areas, anchors keep coming and going, and the place could really use some of us to champion it's protection and thoughtful development.

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