Buena Vista Rock Climbing
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Joined: 8/3/2008
Posts: 3
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Hi,
We decided to beat the heat in Denver and visited Camp Hale this Saturday. I thought the routes were well bolted and the climbs were fun (only did about 4 routes though). Its a great place to go in the summer.
I did run into something that baffled me enough to post here. I climbed the 11b at Mule Train, the second route on the wall, and found it to be fairly soft. Then we went to Power Piton and tried Powerline Buzz (11a) and got totally shut down!! I am wondering if I was missing something, or if something broke, or if the guide had an error in it.
Just Curious...
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Joined: 5/26/2008
Posts: 27
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Hi,
Maybe all three.
Climb hard and have fun.
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Joined: 8/3/2008
Posts: 3
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And given that your name is credited with establishing both routes, you'd be a likely person to help a fella out. You'd certainly be able to give input to #3, no?
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Joined: 5/26/2008
Posts: 27
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Second from the right or left?
The guide book is right, but I may have missed something back then and a hold may have broken on both changing the rating on both.
Thanks for the input, it is now a couple of climbs that need to be checked out.
have fun
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Joined: 8/3/2008
Posts: 3
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The 11b is the second from the left, between the 11c and 11a. I thought going straight up above the third bolt may have been 11- but you could (and my partner did) easily keep the grade in the 10 range by going slightly right and then going back left to clip the 4th bolt.
On powerline buzz, I thought getting established above the break (the horizontal crack that runs the majority of the crag) was really tough. I tried it on TR after leading it and still couldn't figure out what to do. Crazy finger lock to a slopy gaston? There was another crux after the 3rd bolt but it was doable with the correct feet.
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Joined: 6/26/2008
Posts: 8
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Do you mean the .11b named " I'll pack it?" If so I climbed it back in 2005 and thought is was more like .10c.
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Joined: 5/26/2008
Posts: 27
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Page 4, first paragraph.
checking into the problem.
have fun.
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Joined: 5/26/2008
Posts: 27
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Hi there all. I had a friend check out the climbs in question and he said that he was able to climb "I'll Pack It" and said mostly the same thing. If you skirt the crux it goes at a hard 10, but if you pull through the crux then it ought to be 11a, not 11b, so it will be down rated to 11a. Piton Power Wall has some tough climbs on it and I would bet that you missed a hold or two and maybe a foot in trying to get established above the seam. In the course of having fun, you should chalk it up as a learning experience and the next time you are there it may not be so difficult. Also just in case, bring some extra feet and hands.
climb hard and have fun.
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