If you are seeking security, DO NOT CLIMB. To quote Helen Keller...
First a few things about upgrading bolts...
- Re-bolt / upgrade means just that. Remove existing bolts and replace them with modern ones.
- Never add bolts to an existing route to make it safer. If you don't like the way a route is bolted, don't climb it.
- Educate yourself before you attemp to upgrade bolts. Here's a link to a few good articles: http://www.safeclimbing.org/education.htm
Bolt upgrade log from 2004 / 2005
7/15/05
Replaced the 2 bolts on curve of the tusk with hangers and bolts. Removed the cables from the top of elephant rock. DR
5/19/05
Davis Face - The rap stations on the first 2 pitches of the Center Route were replaced.
DR, BW
1/22 & 23/ 05
Almost A Tunnel - All routes received some kind bolt upgrade. DR
Son of a Bolt! 5.11a (route to the left of the center crack) - Anchor bolt upgrade - 2 ½ inch power bolts
That 5.10a route to the right of the center crack - Anchor upgrade -2 ½ inch power bolts, 2 single ring anchors SS - shares with the next route to the right. 4 3/8 power bolts, 4 bolt hangers
What a Nice Little Climb 5.10c (second to the right of the center crack) - Shared anchors, 5 3/8 power bolts, 5 new bolt hangers
Right ending variation - 1 3/8 power bolt, 1 bolt hanger
1/2/05
Fixed The Chef on Chiefs Head, 5.8 mixed gear, 2 bolts 2 single ring rap anchors. DR
Chief’s Main Trail, Chiefs Head - Anchor upgrade - 2 single ring anchors SS, 2 ½ inch power bolts. Bolt upgrade - 2 3/8 inch power bolts, 2 new bolt hangers
Pancho’s Vista Wall - Retro Petro -2 ½ inch power bolts with 2 single ring anchors SS, 4 3/8 inch power bolts w/ 4 replaced bolt hangers. DR
11/29/04
Elephant Rock - South Route rap station - 2 ½ inch power bolts, 2 double ring camouflage anchors. At the start of the traverse on the south route - 1 3/8 inch power bolt, 1 bolt hanger. Replaced bolt and hanger on the south face route. DR
Turtle Rock (North West Face) - Bolt and hanger replace on the start of 3 Bolts You're Out on the Y crack Wall. DR
10/16/04 - Bob's Rock
Replaced anchors on The Funnel aka Bob's Crack with Fixe stainless steel hangers and stainless steel screw links. Also added a rap station so one can easily access this popular toprope route. TP
10/13/04 - South East face of Turtle Rock
Finished the replacement on Knobs 5.10d and Knobs Up 5.11c, 7 camo plate hangers, camo 2 ring on Knobs and grey painted 2 screw links on Knobs Up. DR
10/10/04 - South East face of Turtle Rock
1. Completely refurbished You Call Yourself a Thief? 5.10a 4 stainless steel bolts, hangers, and Fixe Double Ring rap anchors. Outstanding mixed gear route!! TP DR
2. Completely refurbished Un-Named route on the north west side of Turtle Rock (located on the far right side of the wall) with 8 stainless steel bolts, Fixe camo hangers, and a beautiful Fixe equipped rap station. The climb had eye bolts drilled at an angle and no rap anchor. The climbing on this route is awesome and I'm sure it will see a lot of traffic! TP, DR
10/7/04 - Rabbit Rock
1. Replaced missing hangers with Fixe camo hangers and anchors on Rabbit Bites Back 5.12b in the corridor between the main Rabbit Rock formation and the back wall. DR, TP
10/2/04 - South East face of Turtle Rock
1. Replaced rap anchors on Knobs 5.10d with Fixe Double Ring anchors. DR
Synopsis: Split Rock bolt upgrade is more than 70% complete! The crag is starting to have the look and feel of a modern crag with safe(r) fixed equipment. I highly recommend the routes facing the road! If you enjoy the climbing at Penitente Canyon you'll thoroughly enjoy these! On Split Rock you'll find all kinds of crack climbing, edgy face climbing, and awesome nubbin pullin. You can park right next to the crag. BTW... there is awesome mountain biking in this area!
9/25/04 - Split Rock
1. Replaced all bolts and rap anchors on Good Nubbin 5.12a with Fixe Double Ring rap anchors, Fixe hangers, 6 stainless bolts. TP, DR
2. Replaced Eye Bolt anchors on Un-named crack (2 routes left) left of Good Nubbin. Also replaced bolts and hangers to the route just right of this one.
(3 bolts, Double Ring Fixe rap anchors) TP
3. Replaced anchors on 3 other un-named routes with double ring anchors. DR
4. Replace rusted cold shut anchor on the center route in the corridor of Split Rock (un-named route) with Fixe hanger/stainless lowering rings. DR
9/23/04 - Split Rock
Replaced knarly cable anchors on the north west side of the crag with Fixe Double Ring anchors and stainless steel bolts. The new anchor now serves as the top anchor to three joining routes. TP
9/23/04 - Pump Station Rock
1. Replace anchors (had non-equalized shuts) on Who Cares 5.10b with Fixe Double Ring anchors. TP
2. Replaced anchors (had hangers only) on Spread ‘Em 5.10+ PD with Fixe Single Ring anchors. TP
3. Replaced anchors (had hangers only) Corn Flakes 5.9 with Fixe Double Ring anchors. Bolts were terrible so were also replaced with stainless wedge anchors. Also replaced the bolts (1/4") at the top of the second pitch of this route. TP
4. Replaced missing anchors on Right Angle Crack 5.6 with Fixe Single Ring anchors. TP
All cables once used as rap anchors are now no longer exist and were removed. There are still bolts that need to be replace on some of the local crags. Inspect any route and plan your lead carefully!