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Weston Wall-6 new routes
The Weston Wall is located 6 miles up Weston pass. The wall is up the aspen and sage slope(about 10 minute hike)on the left of the road. This wall has 2 routes that are 20 meters long and 4 routes that are just over 30 meters (120'long- 70 meter rope suggested). The climbing is on beautiful white granite with black diorite knobs scattered about. The routes follow flake, seam and crack systems so plan on placing gear. All the routes required some bolts for protection. There are fixed anchors at each routes end. Routes are described from left to right...
(1)Jams and Jugs-5.10d 5 bolts and gear to anchor (20m)
(2)Flakes and Horns-5.10a 5 bolts and a slung horn to anchor (20m)
(3)Blocks and Locks-5.10b bolts and gear mixed (34m)
(4)Chips and Salsa-5.11d bolts and gear mixed (35m)
(5)Seams and Smears-5.11a 8 bolts to gear finish (34m)
(6)Knobs and Nubbins-5.10a bolts and gear (33m)
phone number 970-485-0425 |
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Castle Rock Gulch climbing?
Does anyone know of the climbs here?
I have done a couple of them but I am rather confused on what they are and the rules enforced here.
For example, we started up a nice face filled with golf balls, no nearby cracks, and bolting on lead. We ran into several chopped bolt holes. The climb was fantastic, but rather disappointing to see all the holes. I can't find any info on the crags anywhere (like the Trailhead for instance). If anyone knows anything about this area please contact me. There are several routes in the area that are pretty fun, and the place has a lot of potential.
casey |
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the flake project
this is an interesting topic. the chalked up flake problem that goes right up the main traverse area at Dorthys (ie "rainbow rock, buena vista bouler, etc). anyways i have seen multiple people try and try and only get to the top flake, until this summer, one of my buddies dynoed to a small edge from the top of the flakes.
anyway from my knowledge it has never been sent, anyone know the history of this project? |
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Dump Wall Closure
I wanted to update climbers in the Leadville area about a closure order in place at the Dump Wall (just west of Twin Lakes on Hwy. 82) that is in effect from March 1 through July 31.
We're trying to protect a nesting pair of falcons that has used the area for the last several years. The closure does not affect Monitor or Outlook climbing. Please contact me if you have additional questions. Thanks.
Matt Comer
Wildlife Biologist
Leadville Ranger District
810 Front St.
Leadville, CO 80461
(719) 486-0749
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New Routes for 2008
stay tuned for the snow has left us.
Shoulder Season, S 5.6 4 bolts and 2 single ring anchors. SW and up on Turtle Rock. [:D]
Dr. Who, M 5.7 1 bolt 2 cold shut anchors, wires and small cams. South side of Turtle Rock near the big Pondorosa tree.
climb hard and have fun.
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