Buena Vista Rock Climbing

I recently went up to the Petwall (AKA) Fred wall up North Cotton Wood creek. This has been one of our private retreats and we developed this crag in honor of our dog Fred in 1997. We noticed two new bolted routes on the far right side of the rock, which didn't seemed to be climed and still need to be cleaned. We top roped these lines in the past and called them the Dog Piles and lead them recently and feel the left one is 5.9 and the far right is 5.8. OK for warm ups. Routes from left to right as on-sight leads are #1 Animal Shelter 5.11, #2 Hair of the Dog 5.11c, #3 Fred 10.c/d, #4 Hair Ball 5.11c, So there are 6 routes on the Petwall. The approach from the top to toprope any of the routes is easily accesible and the leads are safe enough for two old asses. No worries here. Scott and Robyn Erler Begins around the corner on the edge of the rock's south face. Climbs the broken crack system and over the roof (5.9+).

The Funnel (Bob's Crack) 5.9
Climbs the vertical to overhanging crack on the right edge of the face. Large stoppers, medium size Friends, shuts

Hot Foot & High Step 5.10a/b
Starts 20 feet right of Air Soles. Gear protects moves to the first bolt then clip 5 bolts on the face. Great holds & super fun!

Cartoon Watcher 5.10a
Same start as Hot Foot and High Step or Air Soles. 5 bolts, 2 single ring rap anchors

Bob's Rock has easy climbing on the north end with a walk up to the top where there is 3 hangers to use for top roping. to get there, go east on main st to colorado st, go north, the pavement turns to dirt, go through the tunnels and Bob's is on your right. Holy Water wall has some easy climbs with anchors on top. to get there go west from the stop light in BV towards Cottonwood Pass, just past the Denny creek trail head about a mile. there are pullouts on both sides of the road, park on the north side, and you should see the wall on the south facing hillside. the trail starts just downhill from the parking lot.good luck and have fun climbing.

Bolt Upgrade Log

10/10/04 - South East face of
1. Completely refurbished You Call Yourself a Thief? 5.10a 4 stainless steel bolts, hangers, and Fixe Double Ring rap anchors. Outstanding mixed gear route!! TP DR
2. Completely refurbished Un-Named route on the north west side of Turtle Rock (located on the far right side of the wall) with 8 stainless steel bolts, Fixe camo hangers, and a beautiful Fixe equipped rap station. The climb had eye bolts drilled at an angle and no rap anchor. The climbing on this route is awesome and I'm sure it will see a lot of traffic! TP, DR

10/7/04 - Rabbit Rock
1. Replaced missing hangers with Fixe camo hangers and anchors on Rabbit Bites Back 5.12b in the corridor between the main Rabbit Rock formation and the back wall. DR, TP

10/2/04 - South East face of Turtle Rock
1. Replaced rap anchors on Knobs 5.10d with Fixe Double Ring anchors. DRSynopsis: Split Rock bolt upgrade is more than 70% complete! The crag is starting to have the look and feel of a modern crag with safe fixed equipment. I highly recommend the routes facing the road! If you enjoy the climbing at Penitente Canyon you'll thoroughly enjoy these! On Split Rock you'll find all kinds of crack climbing, edgy face climbing, and awesome nubbin pullin. You can park right next to the crag. BTW... there is awesome mountain biking in this area!

9/25/04 - Split Rock
1. Replaced all bolts and rap anchors on Good Nubbin 5.12a with Fixe Double Ring rap anchors, Fixe hangers, 6 stainless bolts. TP, DR
2. Replaced Eye Bolt anchors on Un-named crack (2 routes left) left of Good Nubbin. Also replaced bolts and hangers to the route just right of this one.
(3 bolts, Double Ring Fixe rap anchors) TP
3. Replaced anchors on 3 other un-named routes with double ring anchors. DR
4. Replace rusted cold shut anchor on the center route in the corridor of Split Rock (un-named route) with Fixe hanger/stainless lowering rings. DR

9/23/04 - Split Rock
Replaced knarly cable anchors on the north west side of the crag with Fixe Double Ring anchors and stainless steel bolts. The new anchor now serves as the top anchor to three joining routes. TP

9/23/04 - Pump Station Rock
1. Replace anchors (had non-equalized shuts) on Who Cares 5.10b with Fixe Double Ring anchors. TP
2. Replaced anchors (had hangers only) on Spread ‘Em 5.10+ PD with Fixe Single Ring anchors. TP
3. Replaced anchors (had hangers only) Corn Flakes 5.9 with Fixe Double Ring anchors. Bolts were terrible so were also replaced with stainless wedge anchors. Also replaced the bolts (1/4") at the top of the second pitch of this route. TP
4. Replaced missing anchors on Right Angle Crack 5.6 with Fixe Single Ring anchors. TP

All cables previously used as rap anchors are now no longer needed so were removed from the crag. There are still bolts that need to be replace on this crag. Inspect any route you plan to lead carefully before your send!